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When curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end names. Yet, nestled near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.